This is a pewter metal S-scale kit of a 1925 Ford Model T pickup truck, manufactured by Reviresco. Although I model 1924, I decided to get this one anyway, because there weren't that many external differences between the 1924 and 1925 models, and I simply need a bunch of Model Ts on my layout.
(external link: Reviresco page)
This kit comes in a bag of parts, to which the paper shown in a previous photo is stapled.
(external link: Prototype Info)
Since these kits do not come with any sort of parts identification, I put this photo together. The pickup bed is shown in the wrong orientation (flip it 180 degrees). The tiny detail parts in the lower left I think are the rear tail lights (center), but the part on the far left I have no idea what that is for. I wound up not installing any of the parts on this sprue. The part below the truck bed lid I am completely clueless about what that is. The kit's instructions call for a 0.025" brass wire, which is not included with the kit. The kit comes with a folded-down top and a fully expanded top. I chose the former for my model as I model the summer period.
I followed the instructions during the assembly phase. While they are pretty terse, they are adequate enough to build the model. Hopefully, these photos will help you if you are interested in building this kit. The first step is to attach a section of 0.025" brass wire to the steering wheel. All parts in the kit have some degree of flash on them that needs to be filed or scraped off, including in between the spokes of the steering wheel, and, later, the main wheels. I drilled a hole into the steering wheel to match the wire, and then used superglue to attach it. I left the brass wire long, as that makes it easier to install into the body.
I drilled a hole where I thought the wheel should go, and inserted the steering wheel "column" into it. I didn't quite drill the hole straight enough so the wheel is a bit crooked (I later bent the wire a bit to compensate for that). The wheel seems a bit large for the space in the cabin, so it may be a bit of a challenge to get a figure and the brake stick installed.
The next step is to attach the body/cabin to the frame. Both are positioned in the correct orientation relative to each other. The triangular protrusion on the frame is effectively the foot well/pedal area, so the body part goes against that from the left.
The two side-steps/fender-flares needed some filing and bending on mine. They should fit flush up against the edge of the frame. There is a lip on the frame into which they should sit. The front of the side-steps should match up with the front of the frame. When I was happy with them, I applied superglue to attach the parts.
The hood and the radiator are next. Neither part had been cleaned up yet when I took this photo. The intent was to show the orientation of the parts relative to the main body. The hood is hollow, so you do not need to worry about the steering column poking into its space.
The windshield frame is constructed out of 0.025" brass wire. There are two dimples for where to drill the holes. I didn't quite get mine perfectly square and straight, so watch out for that. I wanted the open-top version, but if you are going to use the closed-top version, then you will have to fit the wire to match where the rooftop will sit once installed. I also think I should have made the windshield a bit shorter vertically, but I went by the dimensions the instructions tell you to bend the wire. The kit does not come with a piece of clear plastic for the windshield itself, so I will use and install my own, after the model has been painted.
The truck bed lid doesn't really fit, so I just glued it in place butted up against the back of the bed. Make sure that the frame and the bottom of the bed are cleaned up, so that they are a good fit.
The rear axle is next. There was a long, cylindrical protrusion that I thought might go into a hole in the frame, but it doesn't, so I wound up filling it completely off. If you don't do that, the axle causes the rear of the car to sit too high.
The spare tire just needed some cleaning up and then I was able to glue it under the frame. Make sure to orient it correctly, with the triangular braces out away from the body.
The last part I installed was the 0.025" brass wire that represents the front axle. The radiator part has C-clamp-like hangers for the wire. Some twisting may be required to get the axle to sit straight.
Before attaching the wheels and installing the windshield, I decided to paint the car. I hand-painted the wheels and car with Vallejo black primer.
When the primer had cured, I painted the bench and steering wheel a brown color (representing leather), and then painted the truck bed a different shade of brown (representing wooden boards). In the final photos you will see that I painted the tires a dark gray, and the wheel spokes a thinned red color. Overall, I wanted a subdued, conservatively-painted model, as would be representative of an average car-owner of the day. The main body was painted with Vallejo black paint.
The headlights I painted with a light gray color, and then filled in with canopy glue to simulate glass. It is there, but it is hard to see in the photo and in person. Remember that these are extremely close-up photos of the model, as it is only 2-3/8" long. There is some dust on the model, by the way.
I had already drilled holes through the hub of the wheels, so they fit perfectly onto their respective axles. Several tiny applications of superglue were required to get them to sit on there solidly. Note that the final result is still a very delicate model, so these need to be handled with care. I then sprayed the entire model with Testors Dullcote to remove any shine.
The final step to complete this model was to cut out and shape a piece of clear styrene to represent the windshield. I glued that in place with Formula 501 Canopy glue. I am not 100% happy with my effort there, but using the three-foot rule, the model came out looking like a Ford Model T, and that is what matters.